Alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids (AHA BHA) are both chemical exfoliants that remove dead skin cells from the skin. 

Both are effective for deep exfoliation; an essential part of a good skincare routine. But they are different and have distinct characteristics. 

This article will explain the differences between them for skincare.

AHA vs. BHA: What Are They?

Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) represents acids derived from a natural substance like sugar cane, milk, almonds, and grapes. The effects of AHAs are seen on the surface, such as red marks from acne, dead skin cells, and hyperpigmentation. 

AHAs are water-soluble, which means they mix well with water. They are skin-hydrating to the skin, making them great for sensitive and dry skin types. 

Types of AHA include glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, hydroxycaprylic acid, and hydroxycaproic acid. 

Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) is best for acne-prone skin because BHA penetrates further into the skin. BHAs mix well with oil, as they can bypass the oil that clogs pores. They are occasionally known by other names, including salicylic acid, beta hydroxybutanoic acid, tropic acid, and trethocanic acid.

What Products Can You Find AHA and BHA In?

You can find AHA/BHA in a range of products like: 

  • cleansers
  • toners
  • moisturizers
  • scrubs
  • peels
  • masks

Look at the ingredients to see if you can identify any of the names or types of AHA BHA. These will tell you if either of these acids is present in the product.

Using AHA BHA For Your Skin

The Benefits Of Using AHA

Brightening: It reduces the dead skin cells and allows your skin to reflect more light and look more radiant.

Fading pigmentation: It works to fade dark spots and even out skin tone.

Firming and reducing wrinkles: It increases collagen in the dermis (see studies here and here). It also reduces fine lines and wrinkles and improves the firmness of the skin.

Hydrating: It contains ingredients that help the skin attract and keep moisture.

Clearing skin: It helps exfoliate the dead skin that leads to clogged pores. This may clear up blackheads, whiteheads, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial properties, preventing acne.

The Benefits Of Using BHA

Exfoliating and smoothing: It removes dead skin cells and creates a soft and smooth texture.

Acne scarring: It helps with acne scarring as it has penetrative qualities and exfoliates the top layer of the skin.

Cleanses the face: It removes impurities, germs, dirt, and makeup that can irritate the skin.

Tones the skin: Removes any last traces of dirt, grime, and impurities stuck in your pores after washing your face.

Used in serum: It helps in improving skin texture and repairing damaged skin.

Which Ingredient Should You Use?

Although these two ingredients are suited to different skincare conditions and uses, they can work together.

You can combine them, as long as they are present in the same product. If you’re getting your AHA and BHA from two or more different skincare products, take caution or consult your dermatologist.

Examples Of When and How To Use AHA/BHA:

For acne: BHAs are better. Salicylic acid reduces the severity of acne. Look for a concentration of 2% salicylic acid or its equivalent, 4% betaine salicylate.

For oily skin: Only BHAs will reduce oil production. It may take some experimenting to find the best dose for your skin. Look for a concentration of 1-2% salicylic acid. And 2-4% of betaine salicylate.

For dry or sensitive skin: Lactic acid is the best AHA. It is gentle and hydrating. Look for a concentration between 0.5-1% salicylic acid or 1-2% betaine salicylate. 

For pigmentation: BHAs are your best option. They won’t cause hyperpigmentation. Look for a concentration between 2% salicylic acid or 4% betaine salicylate. 

Are They Safe To Use?

They are both generally safe to use, but both may have side effects if used excessively or incorrectly.

These include:

  • Skin irritation and redness
  • Sun sensitivity
  • Swelling
  • Itching
  • Skin discoloration

To use them safely:

  • First, test the product on a small patch of your skin
  • Follow the instructions on the product
  • Use them with sunscreen every day
  • Use them in the evening when you’re least exposed to the sun

Summary

AHAs and BHAs share some of the same benefits. For example, they’re both great for exfoliation. Yet, they also have different uses. 

AHAs are water-soluble. They are hydrating to the skin and make them great for sensitive and dry skin types. 

BHAs are oil-soluble and are primarily used to treat blemishes and sun damage. They also absorb oil, making them great for oily, blemish-prone skin. 

Depending on your skin needs, you can use one or both of these acids in your routine, just do so in moderation.